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Quote from: Robp201 on September 17, 2017, 08:18:30 PMAlso I believe if you change to slotted rotors you will no longer be in stock anyways... I am curious of this cause I would like to look at differnt brakes as we did experience some good brake fade today. How did you manage to get brake fade today? Today's course(s) were the most speed maintenance (and least braking) of any course I remember.BTW -- thanks to Tom G for a great couple of courses. Seemingly simple, but tough to extract those last bits of time.
Also I believe if you change to slotted rotors you will no longer be in stock anyways... I am curious of this cause I would like to look at differnt brakes as we did experience some good brake fade today.
Quote from: MurrayPeterson on September 17, 2017, 10:21:08 PMQuote from: Robp201 on September 17, 2017, 08:18:30 PMAlso I believe if you change to slotted rotors you will no longer be in stock anyways... I am curious of this cause I would like to look at differnt brakes as we did experience some good brake fade today. How did you manage to get brake fade today? Today's course(s) were the most speed maintenance (and least braking) of any course I remember.BTW -- thanks to Tom G for a great couple of courses. Seemingly simple, but tough to extract those last bits of time.Happens all the time espicaly in Fort Macleod. its a ford flaw with the SE model. Smaller rotor and pad and they heat quick. Also with the DCT we don't get engine braking like the standard transmission ( another flaw lol) so in order to slow the car you have to brake. never thought I would be autocrossing so when I bought the car figured it was just to go to work and back ( and love it for that). This winter we will look at a differnt set up for next season.
Quote from: Robp201 on September 17, 2017, 08:18:30 PMQuote from: Midnightsky on September 17, 2017, 03:19:58 PMNow I know many will say stop fussing about car setup and get some seat time. I agree seat time needs to stay top of my list for next year. But ultimately I feel I can push myself to gain the resources I need to do everything I have planned minus the Koni yellows. I really want to come out the gate swinging next season and use my H-Street PAX to full advantage. I will definitely be planning for the autocross school as well to help me sharpen that loose nut behind the wheel too. I am really looking forward to next season and fighting hard for a spot in the top 20 PAX.Just curious.... what excuse do you plan to use once you do all these mods and still not be top 20? Not sure where your getting the "excuse" part from, the only complaint Ive had in the 3 events Ive done this season is tires and who can blame me they are oem, but it hasn't stopped me from having fun and knocking off the dust from the loose nut behind the wheel. I think you have gotten the wrong impression about me. Having been around autocross and rallycross on/off for the past 5 years I well know the importance of seat time and experience. Unfortunately the past couple years finances have been very low and prevented me from getting the seat time I had wanted. I am expecting a better winter with my career and better finances to help me push forward for next season. In the 3 events Ive done this year I have identified some weak points I wish to address, brake bite, rear swaybar, and tires. None of them are crazy expensive and none of them should reduce my seat time next season. The brakes as Murray pointed out only really require better pads and Im willing to try that and leave the oem rotors next season unless I encounter some issues. The DOT3 fluid is a cheap and easy change which can be done with the pads, Ive boiled fluid before so that's why I was thinking DOT4. Ive also got about 3/4 of a can of superblue DOT4 in my garage that needs to be used so I may end up going with DOT4 for that reason, undecided at this point. As for the Koni Yellows, I had mentioned before that I was looking to just learn a bit more about them and not committing to adding them. I don't feel that Im leaving seat time high and dry or over focusing on setup, the two work hand in hand to acquire good runs and place well. Sure I could start with just tires and leave out the swaybar and brake pads out, but why limit the car if I am confident the finances will be available? Do I expected to be in the top 20 first event, absolutely not, but by mid-season I believe it is an achievable goal. And that's just it, a goal, no guarantee it comes true, but I want to set that as a point to push myself to improve each event. Heck if it takes me 3 years to get there that is totally fine, I will keep taking the autocross school each season and finding those mistakes Im making to continue improving my runs. I am in this for the long haul and have no plans on moving from H-street with my Mazda.
Quote from: Midnightsky on September 17, 2017, 03:19:58 PMNow I know many will say stop fussing about car setup and get some seat time. I agree seat time needs to stay top of my list for next year. But ultimately I feel I can push myself to gain the resources I need to do everything I have planned minus the Koni yellows. I really want to come out the gate swinging next season and use my H-Street PAX to full advantage. I will definitely be planning for the autocross school as well to help me sharpen that loose nut behind the wheel too. I am really looking forward to next season and fighting hard for a spot in the top 20 PAX.Just curious.... what excuse do you plan to use once you do all these mods and still not be top 20?
Now I know many will say stop fussing about car setup and get some seat time. I agree seat time needs to stay top of my list for next year. But ultimately I feel I can push myself to gain the resources I need to do everything I have planned minus the Koni yellows. I really want to come out the gate swinging next season and use my H-Street PAX to full advantage. I will definitely be planning for the autocross school as well to help me sharpen that loose nut behind the wheel too. I am really looking forward to next season and fighting hard for a spot in the top 20 PAX.
The brakes as Murray pointed out only really require better pads and Im willing to try that and leave the oem rotors next season unless I encounter some issues.
Sure I could start with just tires and leave out the swaybar and brake pads out, but why limit the car if I am confident the finances will be available?
Quote from: Midnightsky on September 17, 2017, 11:35:21 PMThe brakes as Murray pointed out only really require better pads and Im willing to try that and leave the oem rotors next season unless I encounter some issues.OK, first agenda item before making any more plans -- go back and re-read the rules. You cannot change the rotors and stay in street classes. And, believe me, if you want to have any hope of being competitive with your car, you really need to stay in HS.You have a sway bar. Add some brake pads and good rubber, and run for next summer without any other changes. All of these other changes (including shocks) just reap diminishing (or zero) returns for more and more money.
I think you're over thinking it. But if you want to prep yourself for next year, I would do:1. Good Fluid - I find that Motul RBF600 doesn't last as long, requires frequent bleeds, and easily boils (on some cars) at the track. Endless RF650 is overkill, but I've used it with good results. I hear Castrol SRF is also very good, less maintenance, and is probably less hydrophilic than the Endless RF650.2. Swap out pads for events - Whatever "race" pad you decide on, you'll always be better off swapping pads for events if it's your daily. I would skip over the Stoptech Street performance pads. Great on the street, "OK" for light autocross, no-go on the track. FWIW, you'll need to match your brake pads to your driving style and overall grip.3. Rotors - Blanks are all you need. I wouldn't worry too much about heat dissipation. Drilled rotors are no good with high heat applications and are prone to cracking. Slotted rotors are cool, but unnecessary with modern brake compounds IMO. Have you ever experienced true brake fade after a long straight at Castrol, or at Race City? Maybe elsewhere? I don't think we go fast enough at any of our locations to really experience rock hard/no-brake situations. If you've experience fade I'd chalk it up to over-driving, stomping on the brakes when they're cold, or not standing on the brake hard enough Anyways, that's my 2c from one newb to another
The two things Im looking at today is pads and rotors. What Im looking for is a sharper initial bite and pads/rotors that can handle some heat. Ive identified two brands that I think have proven their merits, Hawk, and Carbotech. In the past I have used the HP+ and been very happy with the bite once they have warmed up but was never a fan of daily driving them from the noise. Also whatever pads I choose also have to deal with winter and perform decently for ice racing