SCCA Rules, regs and Car Classifications

[Reijo]

You can find it all here:

https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules

Reijo

[Reijo]

Note that you can find car classifications and what is allowed/not allowed in any particular class here!  There are also some other useful downloads etc. etc.

[Midnightsky]

Do I understand the rules correctly for H-Street in that if I wished to upgrade my rear swaybar this would allow me to remain in H-Street still? For endlinks am I allowed to use adjustable ones or do they need to be fixed ones to allow me to remain in H-Street?

Another question I had is rims, from what I understood in reading the rules for street classes I am allowed to drop my rim size by 1, so from oem 18 inch down to a 17inch but it has to remain the same width as my oem size and the offset must be within 7mm of my oem wheels?  As for tires, Im not sure if I was speed reading too fast but will I need to retain the oem tire width as well?

Im planning to take a stab at the H-Street title next season and want to ensure I have everything setup as best as possible.  Alignment won't be easy from what my research has told me but I feel the oem alignment setup is fairly well designed already so I may not play with that yet.  I suppose another good question is this, with the latest class changes, and is there an SASC/CSCC H-Street title to contend? Or is it just an overall street title across all the classes A to H?

[MurrayPeterson]

You can change any one sway bar, including end links (adjustable is allowed).

You have read the wheel regs correctly, and you can run any size rubber you can fit onto those wheels.  For example, my OEM tire width is 205, but I am running 225 right now.

I believe it is now legal to change shift knobs, and you can change shock absorbers, brake pads, and the exhaust after the last catalytic converter.  After that, it must all be OEM.

We (CSCC and SASC) do not have "titles" for individual classes, since we aren't large enough.  Trophies are given out for fastest RAW and fastest PAX drivers of the year.

[Reijo]

Reminder:  Every year and sometimes every month the rules get updated (Fastrack for the monthly updates and proposed rules that are out for comments from the membership).

Hence, it is always a good idea to review the rules and I would even recommend printing out the rules (or at least your section/class/other applicable sections of the rules so you can go through them in depth).

With the first event less than a month away, this would be a good time.  There might even be a few cheap things you can do to improve your car hidden in the rules. 

Reijo

[handyguy]

fyi, I recently petitioned the SCCA to allow +2 wheel mods for Miata street class E. They considered and rejected it, probably because of the can of worms that would open. Nonetheless, I still believe it's unfair.
Here was my supplied petition:
Letter: #30073
Category: Street
Class: ES
Title: Allow the larger factory wheels from Miata NB for use on older NA
Author's Request: It appears that solo rules allow a 1990 miata to only have 1 inch larger wheels (14 to 15 inch). However, 2001+ NB miatas were factory optioned to 16 inch wheels, yet remain in the same E street class. As these newer miatas not only have more power and larger wheels, it would seem fair to allow the larger wheels to be down fitted to the older models for a more level playing field.Thanks!

I guess I'll be 'moving to STS, it's not a tragedy. I found a sweet set of factory 16" rims, a little banged up. I patched the damage and mounted Conti DWS06's. Sold the old 14" rims and tires to another fellow with a slightly newer Miata, but with ratty rims and tires.

[PedalFaster]

Not every car in every class can be equally competitive. Unfortunately, your car isn't one of the top ES cars. No matter what you do to your car, it's not going to keep up with a top-flight ES car that's equally well driven.

I think you're focusing on the wrong thing anyway. The top ES Miata is the '99 Sport, which comes with 15" wheels, not 16s (and which is almost always run with 15s at the top levels of the sport as far as I'm aware, even though upsizing to 16s is legal).

It's actually far more common for people to go down an inch in wheel diameter for lighter weight, better tire size availability (at least for 20" through 17" wheels), and sometimes better gearing.